Author Topic: Timken bearing question...  (Read 682 times)

Offline mfalba

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Timken bearing question...
« on: Wednesday, September 19, 2012. 03:24:28 PM. »
I have a 2002 Road King.

On the sprocket shaft, is it possible to replace the outer Timken bearing, (not the race just the cone), from the left side of the bike, without removing the engine and splitting the cases?

I ask this because I made a gouge in the edge of the cage that holds the rollers.  I did this while I was removing the seal.  Ouch!!!

Thanks!

Mike

Offline harleytoprock

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Re: Timken bearing question...
« Reply #1 on: Wednesday, September 19, 2012. 03:42:46 PM. »
It doesn't seem feasable. The timken bearing is pressed on to the shaft, I don't see how you can grab it to pulled it off without splitting the cases. Behind that bearing is a spacer that sets sets up the end play. By changing the bearing the endplay would have to be checked and a appropriate spacer thickness would have to be selected to get the proper endplay. Again the bearing  would have to go an off to set up the spacer. Sometimes a bearing cage is forgivefull. You could maybe straighten the cage with small needle nose pliers. If the cage doesn't prevent the rollers from rolling it should be all right. Good Luck!
« Last Edit: Wednesday, September 19, 2012. 04:23:55 PM. by harleytoprock »

Offline mfalba

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Re: Timken bearing question...
« Reply #2 on: Thursday, September 20, 2012. 08:10:12 AM. »
Thanks for the feed back.  Got the top end off and will remove and split the cases tomorrow.  Might as well do it right!

Offline koko3052

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Re: Timken bearing question...
« Reply #3 on: Thursday, September 20, 2012. 10:25:13 PM. »
 :doh:
Never replace only the cone or the bearing... ur asking for grief! They wear into each other...replacing only 1 component accelerates the wear!
  35yrs of working on heavy trucks that are full of these assemblies gives me the experience.

Offline Ohio HD

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Timken bearing question...
« Reply #4 on: Friday, September 21, 2012. 05:19:34 AM. »
Timkens are sold as a matched set to the two spacers, the bearing spacer, and the race spacer. The spacers are ground to set the end play. Even at that, sometimes they need shimmed to get correct end play of the crank assy.



Brian


2009 Ultra Classic - Bone Stock 96"
2008 Street Glide - Bone Stock 107"

Offline les

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Re: Timken bearing question...
« Reply #5 on: Friday, September 21, 2012. 06:28:27 AM. »
Timkens are sold as a matched set to the two spacers, the bearing spacer, and the race spacer. The spacers are ground to set the end play. Even at that, sometimes they need shimmed to get correct end play of the crank assy.



Brian

That is a fact.  It would be a crap shoot that the end play came out correct.  Not a good idea.

Offline 02FYRFTR

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Re: Timken bearing question...
« Reply #6 on: Friday, September 21, 2012. 09:14:30 AM. »
I would never split cases w/o having the flywheels gone over.  The larger spacer that sits between the cups is the same for all bearing sets, adjustments are made with the small spacer that fits between the cones.  It has been my experience that less than 10percent of the time is an adjustment required.

Offline mfalba

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Re: Timken bearing question...
« Reply #7 on: Friday, September 21, 2012. 04:53:16 PM. »
Thanks for all of the help.

I've rebuilt several top ends but until now have never done a bottom end.  Really didn't want to do it, but I can't in good conscious reassemble the engine with dents in the bearing cage.  BTW the bearing spins smooth, but if I reassembled I'd always have an uneasy feeling about the dependability of the engine.

The engine is stripped down and the cases are ready to be removed from the frame which I will do this weekend.  I measured runout with a Jims Tool, which is used with the cam plate off and runout is 0.002.

So here's another issue that I wouldn't mind a opinion on. 

I'm planning on using the same 4" flywheel as I have no desire to stroke the motor, at 97" it's big enough for me.  I'm planning on welding and balancing the flywheel and I'm assuming (maybe incorrectly) that truing goes along with the service. So here are my questions:

Will truing the flywheel significantly improve my runout?

At 97" with the torque and HP a little bit above 100 each, is it even necessary to plug and weld a 2002 flywheel?

Will replacing the stock rods with H rods be of any benefit?

Thanks



 

Offline les

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Re: Timken bearing question...
« Reply #8 on: Friday, September 21, 2012. 05:56:26 PM. »
I would never split cases w/o having the flywheels gone over.  The larger spacer that sits between the cups is the same for all bearing sets, adjustments are made with the small spacer that fits between the cones.  It has been my experience that less than 10percent of the time is an adjustment required.

Yes, but I've seen when it's not right and it ends up bad.

Offline Eglider05

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Re: Timken bearing question...
« Reply #9 on: Saturday, September 22, 2012. 03:36:09 AM. »
At 97" with the torque and HP a little bit above 100 each, is it even necessary to plug and weld a 2002 flywheel?



IMHO it sure is. I'll never build another motor without having it done. My early 05 had the same crank without the Timken bearing you have. My crank slipped with a 98" build and with gear drive cams completely trashed the motor. If you have the cases split DO IT! The peace of mind alone is worth it.

Rick