Trans pulley teeth gutted

[hogpipes1]

85 FXRT 21K MI. 370 mi into trip  hit 3 G and that sound you don't want to hear . bikes not moving , off to side of road . 1 st gear clutch out trans pulley jumping around. trailer  it home tear it all down  the teeth are tore up . newer pulley have wider hub for more contact with splines on 5 th G . problem with this stock pulley is it never was on all the way . 1/16 "or so from full seat on splines . can't go in any futher or pulley will hit the trans case , so spacer thickness is ok .  it would be ok if 5 th gear  could come out to make up the  difference . tooth contact between 5 th main & it's counter shaft gear are 100 % right on . so if it could come out then the teeth would not  have that  100 %  and be off the 1/16 "  so i am at a stand still . putting a new pulley on won't fix it as it will still be hanging off the edge of gear .  this pulley had the lock plate on with 2 bolts . still it pushed the nut off the threads til it rip out .  this bike is driven easy , no burn out etc . never had a warning with noise  etc.    any trany guys with advice ,  before i tear out the guts,? thanks ,

[tomfiii]

The later pulley uses a narrower spacer between pulley and transmission and make sure the splines on the output shaft are ok.

[bagga]

if the splines on the main gear are worn you have to change that too. if they're worn and you don't replace it, you will be putting another new pulley on sooner rather than later. it happened to me.

[Dan89flstc]

You may have a mix of old and new configuration parts...

You must use all new or all old configuration parts, they can`t be mixed.

To upgrade to the new configuration, you will need:

New Pulley, spacer, quad seal, oil seal, lock, lock bolts, and nut.

The new pulley will be about .250" thicker at the spline area.

To compensate for the thicker pulley, the spacer is .250" shorter .

The spacer also is a larger outside diameter (that`s why the oil seal and quad seal part numbers changed).

There will also be a lock plate for the nut that bolts to the pulley and holds the nut.

This new configuration came out in `94.

[Flhfxd]

       What Dan said. All good. BTW, nice bike. One of the best handling Harley's I ever rode.
Cheers, Flhfxd.

[ViennaHog]

 Before you go and repair as per Dan's list, make sure that the 5th gear shaft has not moved inwards. Happens easily with a failing pulley putting axial forces on the gear. In this case you need to replace the 5ht gear output shaft and all bearings.

[hogpipes1]

Like i said bike has oe miles and oe stock parts  except for the nut  lock plate and 2- cap screws . still it worked the nut loose   . i am 2 owner at 5k mi. got it all torn down , just need to get a better puller to get the race off the shaft . how that damm thing can be on so tight when tring to come off . but walk in or out on it's own . was able to tap the 5 th gear  in flush where it should of been so the pulley and splines will be at 100 % contact, the threads on the gear are rough so it's comming out of case and i will see if a mach shop can run a LH die  to clean it  up  . if not well new gear will be in along with up graded  wider pulley hub. anyone with a 85-93  should  upgrade  . the stock pulley is too thin  , teeth are weak  and just a POS . Took H-D 8 yrs to get it right.  With the black bitch on the lift  the 03 bagger had to come out of storage . Just not the same  when riding,  the RT has it all over the 03 . sure glad i pick up this keeper.it will be back on the rd next wk. thanks .

[Dan89flstc]

was able to tap the 5 th gear  in flush where it should of been so the pulley and splines will be at 100 % contact

Tap 5th gear in? Hitting the gear is bad for the ball bearing (cross load of bearing)...

5th gear running position is up against the big ball bearing on the inside. It should be pulled into the bearing, reacting on the inner race only to avoid cross loading the bearing.

If you remove the main drive gear from the bearing, you should replace the bearing. Use the correct puller or press to remove the main drive gear, the case has a small lip on the inside of the big ball bearing, and it is easy to break that lip off the case (even when you are careful).

 

 

[tomfiii]

Anyone removing these older gears should check and see if it is a welded two piece set-up which would be wise to replace with a one piece.

[hogpipes1]

was able to tap the 5 th gear  in flush where it should of been so the pulley and splines will be at 100 % contact

Tap 5th gear in? Hitting the gear is bad for the ball bearing (cross load of bearing)...

5th gear running position is up against the big ball bearing on the inside. It should be pulled into the bearing, reacting on the inner race only to avoid cross loading the bearing.

5 th gear was not a tight fit in bearing as it moved back into case , so lite tap with piece of wood easy does it , put it back  where it should of been , after  close insp, of threads on gear it was bad from nut walking , so new gear & bearing  is replaced. hold up now is buddy can't find gear push /puller to set the gear into the bearing . anyone have any home made ideas or tips to get it done right ? thanks .

 

 

[Dan89flstc]

To pull the main drive gear into the big ball bearing, you can rig up a tool.

You will need a section of pipe about 3 inches long, the inside diameter big enough to fit over the splined part of the drive gear, this piece must rest against the inner race of the bearing, make sure the inside diameter is not too big.

A piece of stock, big enough so that it will cover the end of the pipe, with a hole in it (or some big strong steel washers).

A round piece of stock, about 2.5 inches diameter, hole drilled in center.

Long bolt or threaded rod.

Nuts and some washers.

Position the gear into the bearing.

The pipe goes over the end of the gear on the outside of the transmission.

The round stock goes against the back of the gear.

Bolt/ threaded rod through center, install nuts and washers as needed, lube the threads with gear lube.

When you torque the nut down, it will push the gear into the bearing.

Be careful of the needle bearings and seal inside the main drive gear when you feed the rod through.

I hope this makes sense…

If you are considering heating the ball bearing, make sure the bearing does not have a nylon cage, some of them are steel, some nylon.

Do not chill the main drive gear, it will cause condensation to form.

[hogpipes1]

 GOOD 1 on the puller . think heavy PCV  for round stock would work? But 1 st thing mon i'll stop by tool rental place . they have  a lot of items i can pick from . so that may be the fastest . bearing sliped fitted in the case after a freezer trip.  new fag bearing #8996A(Canada) has plastic retainer not impressed with this bear- seems to have more play than the old one . so can't use the heat . i was planning on a freezer for the gear with lite grease on the inner bearing race. what your OP on this ? condensation still going to  be a binding problem .thanks  for the infro. 

[Dan89flstc]

If you freeze the gear, remember to squirt the inside with gear lube after it is installed, to protect the needle bearings from any condensation.

[bagga]

GOOD 1 on the puller . think heavy PCV  for round stock would work? But 1 st thing mon i'll stop by tool rental place . they have  a lot of items i can pick from . so that may be the fastest . bearing sliped fitted in the case after a freezer trip.  new fag bearing #8996A(Canada) has plastic retainer not impressed with this bear- seems to have more play than the old one . so can't use the heat . i was planning on a freezer for the gear with lite grease on the inner bearing race. what your OP on this ? condensation still going to  be a binding problem .thanks  for the infro. 

i used a water pipe coupler from the hardware store. i don't remember what size tho. it was about 3inches long and 2inches around. i'm not sure if thats the exact size.

[Dan89flstc]

 

The inside diameter of the big ball bearing inner race is 1.77" (45MM).

The tool should be slightly larger than this inside diameter, to allow the shaft end of the gear to fit inside, but it must not be so large that the tool does not react against the inner race.

[hogpipes1]

Between my stock pile of nuts, bolts , scrap metal  etc . (the gold pile) and a indy  shop  i came up with a good puller to get the main gear into the bearing .  so thats  done .  pulled the rotor  off to seal up the stator plug in case leak.  any + in having a molded stator VER- the open winding type .? i can't see any as they just retain more heat. when threw 3 or 4 on a 81 FLT. Mfg. must have  some reason as they still make them for the older  bikes .?