Click HERE for HTT Shirts and Patches
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
You are making this too complicated....
You are making this too complicated.What do you want to do with the timing?What ignition system are you using.And to further confuse you the cam turns at half the speed of the fly wheel, sooo what ever changes you make with the timing plate is doubled at the fly wheel.Stock factory timing is 35* (the asterisk is for degrees) BTDC. How much further advance do you want to go?
after loaded test riding in the hottest weather you expect to encounter...load-test ride new timing set point...Repeat the same change until you encounter pinging when load tested.IF there is no improvement from advancing timing, try going the opposite direction (retarding) testing for power increase.Careful with too much advance OR retard as damage can be done if run long enough too far either way.Bob
The engine will use what it needs.. back down the advance one and see if it goes away.. Timing is set last after your afr is dialed in.. If your afr is floating in the low 13 range.. pull some timing.. provided the rest of the set is correct there is no "set timing " scale......
"......would there be any communication being conveyed from the "Cam Position SENSOR" to the tachometer that could result in the tachometer erratically jumping around? In other words if there is a "CAM POSITION SENSOR" does it have anything to do with communication with the tachometer. If so, could the "Cam Position Sensor" actually cause the tachometer to erratically jump around and basically go haywire ? ? ? ?One issue that was going on with my bike just before I tore it down in the past couple of weeks is that my tachometer began jumping around erratically ranging from 3000 RPMS upto 7000 RPMS just literally bouncing around and then settling down and then bouncing again....just as I mentioned very erratic...and so in the process of everything I have been trying to determine a root cause for that as well. Any ideas anyone?
You could use this tool from the right side with a timing light.http://www.retrocycle.com/cccatalogpage.php?pagenum=1064
Cam Position Sensor - It tells the ign module when to fire the coil.Static timing - The engine is shut off. Set the crankshaft in the position of initial timing you want then rotate the CPS in the opposite direction of cam travel until it signals the module to fire. This is good for building the engine and initial start-up. Some ign systems like the HI-4 have a LED on them to help with this process.Dynamic timing - With the engine running, set the engine to the total degrees of advance that you want at a specified RPM. Much more accurate than static timing.Inductive timing light - A timing light that has a sensor that clamps around the spark plug wire. It picks up the signal by induction rather than a direct connection.A "dial back" timing light also has a means of adjusting the "apparent" timing. I have an old Snap-on dial back timing light that I've had for about 30 years. It has a dial on the back of it that's graduated in degrees. It doesn't change the timing on the engine, it just programs a delay in the light that corresponds to actual timing. This is really useful if you can only see certain timing marks like TDC. If I want 35 degrees advance at 3000 RPM, I can set the light to 35 degrees, run the fully warmed up engine up to 3000 RPM and line up the TDC mark on the flywheel. Or, if I have my engine running great and want to know exactly what the timing is so I can set it back to that point, I can run the engine up to 3000 RPM, turn the dial until the TDC mark lines up, and read the degrees on the back of the light.There are many variables that affect what correct timing should be. Compression, combustion chamber shape, cam event timing, fuel octane and quality, a/f ratio, ignition advance curve, altitude, temperature, humidity, the amount of carbon in the heads, ect. Perhaps the correct timing is best obtained by the way taught to me in a small town garage more than 40 years ago - "Advance her til she pings, then back her off a little!"
I would imagine that this tool would really help out a lot, but I am not sure it will work with an OEM ignition Module and OEM Cam Position Sensor will it?If this tool won't work then am I back at trying to do the "static" timing and the "dynamic" timing?
Page created in 0.753 seconds with 24 queries.